In-lens image stabilization compared to sensor based shake reduction (SR, IS, VR, OS, VC compared)
There seems to be a common myth that image stabilization that is built into the lens peforms better than a sensor-based image stabilization system. I’ve seen people go as far as claiming that sensor based systems only give 1-2 stops of hand-holdability and then quote manufacturers’ marketing material about in-lens systems giving 4 stops advantage.
If you’re reading this, then you may be wondering which is better? The first thing you should do, is ignore the manufacturers. They seem to practically compete in who dares to promise the most “stops of hand holdability”. Image stabilization is great, I would not buy a camera without one, but that’s about all you should believe of the marketing.
For the record, here are the advantage in stops that different manufacturers promise for their image stabilization systems (and the different acronyms explained):
- Nikon: 4 stops (18-200 VR / Vibration Reduction)
- Canon: 3 stops (70-200/2.8 L IS / Image Stabilization)
- Sigma: 4 stops (120-400/4.5-5.6 OS / Optical Stabilization)
- Tamron: 4 stops (18-270/3.5-6.3 VC / Vibration Compensation)
- Pentax: 2.5 – 4 stops (K20D SR / Shake Reduction)
My subjective opinion
I’m not a totally unbiased reviewer. I use the Pentax Shake Reduction system daily on my K10D. I’ve also used the Nikon 18-200VR lens. Now it’s not easy to quantify the exact advantage of these systems, but I can say this much: when there’s a need for shake reduction (i.e., too little light and long shutter speeds), I can tell immediately if I’m not shooting with the SR on. It’s like night and day. I’ve literally never been disappointed with the SR or felt it could’ve given me more. That is not to say, I never get shaken shots: I do. But in those cases, it is the careless shooting style that gets me in trouble, not lackluster SR performance.
Low shutter speed and subject movement
If I’m shooting at 18mm, the one over focal length rule would indicate that I need to have 1/18s shutter speed to avoid blur. Let’s round that up to 1/20. Now, four stops advantage would be:
1/20 -> 1/10 -> 1/5 -> 1/2.5 -> 1/1.25 or 0.89 seconds (nearly a second) shutter speed. I’ve seen people pull off one second exposures, but that’s the exception and I certainly would be happy with a 1/10s shot being blur free. With exposures this long, the shot is more likely to be ruined by subject movement in any case.
Stabilization features
In-lens stabilization has the advantage of stabilizing the image seen from the viewfinder. Then again, you cannot account for the shake when you don’t see it. Also, the stabilization is working continuously, thus eating more battery.
In-body stabilization works for all lenses. People still shoot with lenses older than I am (I’ve even done that myself). With a stabilized body, all those lenses can be stabilized. Also, upgrading bodies means upgrading the stabilization of each and every lens you have.
In lens stabilization means there is one more lens element and one more moving part inside the objective. A moving element may end up affecting image quality and it certainly is something that may cause you to have to have the lens serviced at some point in the future.
Comparing the tests: case in point
In case you’re still convinced that either in-lens or in-body stabilization can be announced to be definitely better than the other, then you should look at some tests. A case in point: comparing the highly valued Nikon 18-200VR and the Pentax K200D stabilization. The stabilization in the lens is marketed as one of the best and everyone always picks on K200D’s stabilization, possibly because of it’s reliance on AA-batteries. Now compare the results at 50mm:
- http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/pentaxk200d/page13.asp
- http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/nikon_18-200_3p5-5p6_vr_afs_n15/page3.asp
Now let me spoil the results: K200D wins.
Surprised? I was, and I know how good the Pentax stabilization is. The take home message: Don’t take anyone’s word over fact. Don’t believe that the stabilization system of Pentax, Olympus, Sony, Nikon or Canon would be better than that of the others because someone tells you so. Look at the tests and don’t waste your time worrying about half-stop differences.
